Future Now: Virtual Sneakers to Cutting-Edge Kicks

The oldest works of art at Mint Museum Randolph may stretch back thousands of years — but this fall, the spotlight is on what’s next.

Future Now: Virtual Sneakers to Cutting-Edge Kicks explores the evolution of shoes — from 19th-century industrial breakthroughs to today’s boundary-pushing designs built for both the real world and the metaverse. Curated by Elizabeth Semmelhack, director and senior curator of the Bata Shoe Museum in Toronto, Future Now features approximately 60 revolutionary pairs of footwear, drawing from the Bata collection and private loans. Expect creations from icons like Salehe Bembury, RTFKT, Zaha Hadid, Mr. Bailey, Nike ISPA, SCRY, and more.

From factory floor to fashion frontier

During the 19th century, the traditional craft of shoemaking in the West was transformed by industrialization and the development of new synthetic materials. Early innovations gave rise to affordable, durable footwear — but they also limited consumer options for sizes and styles and led to the exploitation of workers and environmental waste. The designers represented in Future Now grapple with this complex history, prioritizing sustainability and style in equal measure. Although Future Now includes many kinds of footwear, the emphasis is on sneakers, highlighting the ways designers have met the performance and aesthetic needs of athletes and sneakerheads alike. The exhibition, organized into five sections, begins with an overview of new technologies and materials from the 19th and 20th centuries and includes some of the earliest sneakers, made in the 1890s, and evening shoes with celluloid heels from the 1920s.

Innovation unleashed

The “Innovation” section features 21st-century avant-garde styles like the NOVA platform shoe by the late Iraqi British architect Zaha Hadid. The cantilevered fiberglass platforms share the curvaceous lines and futuristic look of her building designs. The shoe is the first to use rotational molding to create its vinyl uppers and also includes vacuum-cast fiberglass platforms and heel wedges. It is made by United Nude, a company founded by Rem D. Koolhaas, who also studied architecture and believes that “shoes that don’t look like shoes can be the most exciting shoes.”

Projecting into the future

The shoe industry churns out over 20 billion pairs of shoes each year, contributing an estimated 2% of global carbon emissions. But visionary designers are combatting these problems through waste-free production methods and materials. In the “Sustainable” section of the exhibition, Designer Zixiong Wei and his company SCRY (the verb “scry” means to look into the future) created his otherworldly Undercurrent shoe in a fully digital process, from design to 3D printing, avoiding the material waste of offcuts in manufacturing. Footwear design today is more diverse — and more digital — than ever. In the “Transformative” section, view designs by creative disruptors like Daniel Bailey, aka Mr. Bailey. Bailey, founder of Conceptkicks, is a champion for the next generation, sharing the design process with emerging creators around the world through digital platforms. Mr. Bailey’s Octopus Shoe reinterprets the high-top sneaker through the lens of Japanese pop artist Takashi Murakami. Inspired by Murakami’s Dobtopus sculptures, a variation of his recurring animated character Mr. Dob, Mr. Bailey’s design thoroughly reimagines the form of a high-top sneaker with sucker-laden tentacles reaching up from around the sole and tongues featuring Mr. Dob’s Mickey Mouse-like, round ears and toothy open mouth.

Into the virtual realm

In a world where our identities live both online and off, the final section — “Virtual” — dives into the fascinating realm of digital fashion. Enter RTFKT (pronounced “artifact”). The trailblazing company founded by Benoit Pagotto, who previously worked in e-sports marketing; Chris Le, a game designer; and Steven Vasilev, a customizer of sneakers, fuses gaming, crypto, and culture, producing NFT sneakers with a real-world counterpart. Much like works of art or custom-made products, NFTs are unique digital assets. RTFKT created a new model where consumers who purchase sneaker NFTs are also entitled to a matching pair of physical sneakers made on demand. The consumer can then wear them as an avatar, a physical version in real life, or sell them for profit. New York streetwear legend Jeff Staple joined forces with RTFKT. Staple rose to fame in 2005 when he was commissioned by Nike to design a shoe that represented his home city. Staple took inspiration from the pigeon, a creature he sees as a “hustler” and a “warrior” that follows its own rules. He created the limited-edition Nike Dunk Low Pro SB Pigeon—aka the cult-classic Pigeon Dunk. With only 30 pairs made to sell, the drop caused a frenzy in lower Manhattan on release day February 22, 2005. When Staple saw RTFKT’s NFT sneakers, he sensed a similar cultural inflection point and approached them about collaborating. The result: a futuristic digital-physical hybrid known as the MetaPigeon and another instant sneaker icon.

–Rebecca Elliot is associate curator of craft, design, and fashion at The Mint Museum.